What not to miss in Chiang Mai?

Skip the Night Bazaar. It's a permanent tourist market east of the Old City, filled with the same knock-off goods you can find anywhere in Southeast Asia. The real highlights are elsewhere.

The Monk's Trail and Doi Suthep

The gold-spired temple on the mountain above the city is worth the trip, but the songthaew drop-off version misses the point. The better approach is on foot, via the Monk's Trail. The trailhead sits behind Chiang Mai University; you climb through forest for about 45 minutes until you reach Wat Pha Lat, a small temple built into the rocks with a stream running through the grounds. The view back over the city from the platform there is one of those that stops you completely.

From Wat Pha Lat you can push on to Doi Suthep itself (another 90 minutes, steeper) or flag a songthaew at the road that crosses the trail. Either way, go in the morning before the heat builds.

The Old City temples

Chiang Mai has over 300 temples. Two are worth prioritising. Wat Phra Singh is the most visited and the most beautifully maintained. Wat Chedi Luang, a 14th-century chedi that was once the tallest structure in the Lanna kingdom, is more atmospheric. They're 10 minutes apart on foot inside the Old City. Go in the morning. Dress modestly.

If you have a spare hour, Wat Phan Tao sits right next door to Wat Chedi Luang. It's an all-teak temple, quieter than the others, and worth walking through at golden hour.

Sunday Walking Street

Every Sunday from around 4pm, Tha Phae Walking Street closes to traffic and fills with stalls: handicrafts, food, art, and clothes. This is where locals actually go. The food section spreads across temple courtyards and the standard is higher than most Bangkok night markets. Come hungry, bring small bills, and plan to stay a few hours.

Khao soi

The dish you're supposed to eat in Chiang Mai is khao soi: coconut curry noodle soup with crispy noodles on top, pickled mustard, shallots, and lime. Khao Soi Khun Yai (inside the Old City, lunch only, closes when sold out) is the named recommendation. The queue moves fast.

Siri Wattana morning market

One block over from the more commonly mentioned Warorot Market is Siri Wattana, the morning fresh market where Chiang Mai's restaurants actually shop. Go between 6:30 and 8:30am. Get sai ua (northern Thai sausage) and sticky rice for breakfast. Almost no tourists ever find it.

North Gate Jazz Co-op

The jazz bar just outside the north gate of the Old City. Small, loud, and frequently spilling into the street. Tuesday is open-mic night and it's the night to go: touring musicians sit in with the house band and the standard is surprisingly high. Free entry, cheap beer.

What to skip

The Night Bazaar is a tourist trap. Pai is four hours each way on a road that makes many people carsick, and there isn't much there that justifies the journey. If you want a day out of the city, Mae Kampong is closer, cooler, and considerably more interesting.

For more on what to do with a specific amount of time, see our Things to do in Chiang Mai guide.